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Peloponnese, Zakynthos and Kefalonia

Patras and the cast of Achaia

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The third largest city in Greece, Patras is a business and education centre as well as being the capital of the prefecture of Achaia. Road, rail and especially sea traffic all meet here linking the Peloponnese with the rest of Greece and with the ports of the Adriatic and, by extension, Western Europe.

In the harbour and in the large square next to it, with the railroad station at one end and on the surrounding streets, there is incessant traffic. But off the waterfront, parts of Patras are charming and quiet. Facilities for tourists abound: shops, hotels, restaurants are all very much in evidence and its summer festival held in the restored Roman Odeon is well worth attending. King George I Square nearby represents another era; it is lined with neoclassical buildings and its Municipal Theatre is a replica of the Skala in Milan. Up above, you can see the ruined medieval castle.

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The coast of Ilia and a side trip to Zakynthos and Kefalonia

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Travelling along the Patra - Pyrgow national road, we leave Achaia behind and enter the fertile district of Ilia, ancient Elis. At Lechaina turn towards the sea to see for yourselves if all you've heard about its endless beautiful beaches is true. The coast is almost a continuous band of golden sand from one end to the other.

From Lechaina we turn a little to the north to view lake Kotychi, but it's hard to stay away from the beaches that are so close to it. If we head west, we soon reach Kyllini, an important port in ancient times and again during the Frankish occupation, when it was known as Glarentza (Clarence). A few scattered remains can be seen, among which the Franco-Byzantine monastery of the Virgin of Vlachernai. Far more impressive in the immense fortress of Chlemoutsi (Claimont) at Kastro to the south. With its huge barrel vaulted galleries around its keep, it is the best preserved Frankish monument in the Peloponnese. It commanded a view of all the surrounding countryside. For most people, Greece is represented by ancient columns and Byzantines churches; it's hard for us to envisage a time when knighthood was in flower and jousting tournaments were held on the plains below.

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Ancient Olympia and southwest coast

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In Kyllini once more, we take the Patras - Pyrgos national road south. By turning at Amaliada, we can follow the coast and feast our eyes or take a dip at the lovely open beaches at Kourouta and Palouki, at Katakolo (the port of Pyrgos) and beyond. But to vary the drive a bit, we'll turn anland for Olympia (20km past Pyrgos), one of Greece's major sites, and one know the wold over.

The landscape of Olympia is the antithesis of Delphi's. No drama or vistas here; instead, its wooded hills and quiet rivers give it a feeling of peace in valley; the only rivalries were athletic contents. The origin of the Olympic Games is shrouded in myth, but their official start in 776 BC, they were held regularly every four years until 393 AD. And in our own era, the torch is lit here and from here is passed to the country where the Games are being held. Avisit to Olympia takes us back to when the Games were at their peak in the 5th century BC., a glorious time when wars stopped in observance of the Truce and the victors were content with a simple olive wreath.
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